Expert Advice & Skin Science

Experience expert skincare knowledge and advanced science, uniquely infused with the wisdom of Japanese skincare rituals and smart ingredient formulation.

In this section, you'll find trusted guidance from leading experts, practical tips rooted in Japanese ritual, and educational resources to help you understand your unique skin.

Understanding your skin

Understanding your genetic ethnic origin (ancestry) may not only help you understand your skin and address specific skin concerns, but also give you insight into effective, preventative care measures. While visible pigmentation (melanin levels) is more frequently reflective of skin condition and susceptibility to certain skin concerns, it is not the only causation factor. It is also essential to understand the contribution that your overall state of wellness has, in both a holistic and all embracing way.

Differences of Skin Conditions

Click below on a skin condition to learn more:

Acne / Breakouts
Ageing & Hyperpigmentation
Balanced Skin
Burns Very Easily and Quickly
Combination Skin (All)
Dark Circles
Dark Spots
Dryness
Dull Skin
Fine Lines / Ageing
Hormonal Skin Concerns
Hyperpigmentation
Large Pores
Loss of Firmness
Never Burns
Oiliness / Large Pores
Other
Pollution
Rarely Burns
Redness / Irritation
Sensitivity
Usually Burns
Acne / Breakouts

Acne / Breakouts

Acne is caused by any blockage of a pore on the skin's surface, there are multiple different types of acne. These obstructions can be caused by individual or combinations of matter including excessive sebum, dead skin cells, bacteria and/or dirt, and can result in inflammation and/or irritation.

Ageing & Hyperpigmentation

Ageing & Hyperpigmentation

Ageing & Hyperpigmentation refer to the chronological effects that influence the skin’s condition, tone, and overall health. The loss of elasticity, tone, brightness, and strength can all be the result of chronological ageing. Hyperpigmentation is the darkening of skin pigment, in comparison to the natural occurring pigment colour of the skin. This can be a result of photodamage, hormonal changes, age, as well as external and/or internal pollutants and/or stressors over the period of a lifetime.

Balanced Skin

Balanced Skin

Refers to skin that has well-balanced sebum and moisture production - it is not too oily and not too dry. Balanced skin has refined pores and no visible blemishes, flaky areas or oily spots.

Burns Very Easily and Quickly

Burns Very Easily and Quickly

Exposure to ultraviolet radiation, UVA or UVB rays always and quickly causes damage to the skin. When the skin burns, not only does the surface appear red and often increase in temperature, it also causes damage to the skin cells. This surface damage can progress to DNA damage which is irreversible and can result in melanoma.

Combination Skin (All)

Combination Skin (All)

Just like the name suggests, this skintype is a combination of different skintypes and can range from very dry to very oily. Different regions of the face can have different skintypes, i.e. the T-zone can be oily with dry skin in alternate areas.

Dark Circles

Dark Circles

Skin under the eyes appears to be darker to that of surrounding areas. This can be caused by a multitude of extrinsic and/or intrinsic factors including lack of sleep, exhaustion, dehydration, or hyperpigmentation.

Dark Spots

Dark Spots

Dark spots are a type of hyperpigmentation. They usually refer to small, isolated marks—often caused by sun exposure (sun spots), post-acne marks (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), or healing blemishes. They tend to be surface-level and more defined in shape.

Dryness

Dryness

Dry skin is characterised by less production of natural sebum and as a result, the skin tends to be dry, rough, and sometimes cracked or flaky-looking. Dry skin is more susceptible to irritation and infection as a lack of moisture means that the skin’s protective barrier is compromised.

Dull Skin

Dull Skin

Dull skin is the consequence of an increased ratio of dead skin cells which appear dry and rough in texture. As a consequence, skin lacks luminosity and can have a lacklustre appearance.

Fine Lines / Ageing

Fine Lines / Ageing

The structure of the skin becomes increasingly thin over time due to intrinsic and extrinsic ageing effects, resulting in a depletion of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. These implications result in the skin becoming progressively dry as well as an increase in the presence of fine lines and wrinkles.

Hormonal Skin Concerns

Hormonal Skin Concerns

Hormonal skin concerns are often due to an imbalance in the bodies naturally occurring hormones such as progesterone, testosterone and estrogen. These hormones communicate with sebaceous glands (sebum production) and can result in adverse effects such as acne or hyperpigmentation.

Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation is the darkening of skin pigment, in comparison to the natural occurring pigment colour of the skin. This can be a result of photodamage, hormonal changes, age, as well as external and/or internal pollutants and/or stressors over the period of a lifetime.

Large Pores

Large Pores

Large pores are predetermined (genetic); however, how they appear may be influenced by intrinsic or extrinsic factors. Examples include, excessive levels of sebum being produced, ageing, overall condition of the skin, stress, inflammation and acne, and even lifestyle habits such as smoking.

Loss of Firmness

Loss of Firmness

The structure of skin becomes increasingly thin over time due to intrinsic and extrinsic ageing effects. This is a consequence of a depletion in collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. The skin can consequently sag or appear crepey.

Never Burns

Never Burns

Exposure to ultraviolet radiation, UVA or UVB rays does not easily cause damage to the skin. Never burning suggests that there is no appearance of redness on the skin, and the likelihood of damage to the skin cells is reduced, this damage could otherwise progress to DNA damage which is irreversible and can result in melanoma.

Oiliness / Large Pores

Oiliness / Large Pores

Oily skin occurs where sebaceous glands produce excess sebum, consequently the individual is prone to breakouts, blackheads and acne. Pores are generally visibly larger and the skin surface shiny.

Other

Other

A skin concern that does not fit into any other defined category of concern, but is of a specific and notable concern to the individual.

Pollution

Pollution

Daily exposure to air pollution—like fine dust, smoke, and environmental toxins—can disrupt the skin’s natural balance, leading to skin that is highly reactive and sensitive. Skin can become dull, dehydrated, inflamed or prone to breakouts as the barrier function weakens.

Rarely Burns

Rarely Burns

Exposure to ultraviolet radiation, UVA or UVB rays rarely causes damage to the skin. Rarely burning suggests that there is an infrequent appearance of redness on the skin, and the likelihood of damage to the skin cells is reduced, this damage could otherwise progress to DNA damage which is irreversible and can result in melanoma.

Redness / Irritation

Redness / Irritation

Skin that changes in physical appearance and texture due to external or internal factors. For example, sunburn or blocked pores can result in inflammation, uneven surface, itchiness and irritation, and in severe cases, pain.

Sensitivity

Sensitivity

Sensitive skintypes have skin that becomes flushed and red easily, possesses dry patches, is easily itchy/irritated, and displays hypersensitivity to changes in weather (temperature). Sensitive skintypes often have difficulty switching products as they can react quickly to ingredients that are too harsh or irritating for their skin.

Usually Burns

Usually Burns

Exposure to ultraviolet radiation, UVA or UVB rays usually causes damage to the skin. When the skin burns, not only does the surface appear red and often increase in temperature, it can also cause damage to the skin cells. This surface damage can progress to DNA damage which is irreversible and can result in skin cancers.

Click below on a skin condition to learn more:

Acne / Breakouts
Acne / Breakouts
Ageing & Hyperpigmentation
Balanced Skin
Burns Very Easily and Quickly
Combination Skin (All)
Dark Circles
Dark Spots
Dryness
Dull Skin
Fine Lines / Ageing
Hormonal Skin Concerns
Hyperpigmentation
Large Pores
Loss of Firmness
Never Burns
Oiliness / Large Pores
Other
Pollution
Rarely Burns
Redness / Irritation
Sensitivity
Usually Burns
Acne / Breakouts
Acne / Breakouts

Acne is caused by any blockage of a pore on the skin's surface, there are multiple different types of acne. These obstructions can be caused by individual or combinations of matter including excessive sebum, dead skin cells, bacteria and/or dirt, and can result in inflammation and/or irritation.

Ageing & Hyperpigmentation
Ageing & Hyperpigmentation

Ageing & Hyperpigmentation refer to the chronological effects that influence the skin’s condition, tone, and overall health. The loss of elasticity, tone, brightness, and strength can all be the result of chronological ageing. Hyperpigmentation is the darkening of skin pigment, in comparison to the natural occurring pigment colour of the skin. This can be a result of photodamage, hormonal changes, age, as well as external and/or internal pollutants and/or stressors over the period of a lifetime.

Balanced Skin
Balanced Skin

Refers to skin that has well-balanced sebum and moisture production - it is not too oily and not too dry. Balanced skin has refined pores and no visible blemishes, flaky areas or oily spots.

Burns Very Easily and Quickly
Burns Very Easily and Quickly

Exposure to ultraviolet radiation, UVA or UVB rays always and quickly causes damage to the skin. When the skin burns, not only does the surface appear red and often increase in temperature, it also causes damage to the skin cells. This surface damage can progress to DNA damage which is irreversible and can result in melanoma.

Combination Skin (All)
Combination Skin (All)

Just like the name suggests, this skintype is a combination of different skintypes and can range from very dry to very oily. Different regions of the face can have different skintypes, i.e. the T-zone can be oily with dry skin in alternate areas.

Dark Circles
Dark Circles

Skin under the eyes appears to be darker to that of surrounding areas. This can be caused by a multitude of extrinsic and/or intrinsic factors including lack of sleep, exhaustion, dehydration, or hyperpigmentation.

Dark Spots
Dark Spots

Dark spots are a type of hyperpigmentation. They usually refer to small, isolated marks—often caused by sun exposure (sun spots), post-acne marks (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), or healing blemishes. They tend to be surface-level and more defined in shape.

Dryness
Dryness

Dry skin is characterised by less production of natural sebum and as a result, the skin tends to be dry, rough, and sometimes cracked or flaky-looking. Dry skin is more susceptible to irritation and infection as a lack of moisture means that the skin’s protective barrier is compromised.

Dull Skin
Dull Skin

Dull skin is the consequence of an increased ratio of dead skin cells which appear dry and rough in texture. As a consequence, skin lacks luminosity and can have a lacklustre appearance.

Fine Lines / Ageing
Fine Lines / Ageing

The structure of the skin becomes increasingly thin over time due to intrinsic and extrinsic ageing effects, resulting in a depletion of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. These implications result in the skin becoming progressively dry as well as an increase in the presence of fine lines and wrinkles.

Hormonal Skin Concerns
Hormonal Skin Concerns

Hormonal skin concerns are often due to an imbalance in the bodies naturally occurring hormones such as progesterone, testosterone and estrogen. These hormones communicate with sebaceous glands (sebum production) and can result in adverse effects such as acne or hyperpigmentation.

Hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation is the darkening of skin pigment, in comparison to the natural occurring pigment colour of the skin. This can be a result of photodamage, hormonal changes, age, as well as external and/or internal pollutants and/or stressors over the period of a lifetime.

Large Pores
Large Pores

Large pores are predetermined (genetic); however, how they appear may be influenced by intrinsic or extrinsic factors. Examples include, excessive levels of sebum being produced, ageing, overall condition of the skin, stress, inflammation and acne, and even lifestyle habits such as smoking.

Loss of Firmness
Loss of Firmness

The structure of skin becomes increasingly thin over time due to intrinsic and extrinsic ageing effects. This is a consequence of a depletion in collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. The skin can consequently sag or appear crepey.

Never Burns
Never Burns

Exposure to ultraviolet radiation, UVA or UVB rays does not easily cause damage to the skin. Never burning suggests that there is no appearance of redness on the skin, and the likelihood of damage to the skin cells is reduced, this damage could otherwise progress to DNA damage which is irreversible and can result in melanoma.

Oiliness / Large Pores
Oiliness / Large Pores

Oily skin occurs where sebaceous glands produce excess sebum, consequently the individual is prone to breakouts, blackheads and acne. Pores are generally visibly larger and the skin surface shiny.

Other
Other

A skin concern that does not fit into any other defined category of concern, but is of a specific and notable concern to the individual.

Pollution
Pollution

Daily exposure to air pollution—like fine dust, smoke, and environmental toxins—can disrupt the skin’s natural balance, leading to skin that is highly reactive and sensitive. Skin can become dull, dehydrated, inflamed or prone to breakouts as the barrier function weakens.

Rarely Burns
Rarely Burns

Exposure to ultraviolet radiation, UVA or UVB rays rarely causes damage to the skin. Rarely burning suggests that there is an infrequent appearance of redness on the skin, and the likelihood of damage to the skin cells is reduced, this damage could otherwise progress to DNA damage which is irreversible and can result in melanoma.

Redness / Irritation
Redness / Irritation

Skin that changes in physical appearance and texture due to external or internal factors. For example, sunburn or blocked pores can result in inflammation, uneven surface, itchiness and irritation, and in severe cases, pain.

Sensitivity
Sensitivity

Sensitive skintypes have skin that becomes flushed and red easily, possesses dry patches, is easily itchy/irritated, and displays hypersensitivity to changes in weather (temperature). Sensitive skintypes often have difficulty switching products as they can react quickly to ingredients that are too harsh or irritating for their skin.

Usually Burns
Usually Burns

Exposure to ultraviolet radiation, UVA or UVB rays usually causes damage to the skin. When the skin burns, not only does the surface appear red and often increase in temperature, it can also cause damage to the skin cells. This surface damage can progress to DNA damage which is irreversible and can result in skin cancers.

Building the Best Skin Regime

In order to nourish and take care of your complexion the right way, it is important that you know the best skincare practices for your skin, as well as the suitable ingredients for your skin type.

Take the skin assessment

Understanding Your Skin

Skin Type I (Very Pale or Ivory)

Skin Type II (Pale or Fair)

Skin Type III (Fair or Beige)

Skintype IV (Beige or Olive)

Skin Type V (Medium to Dark)

Skin Type VI (Dark to Very Dark)

The Structures & Functions of the Skin

The skin is the largest and arguably the most important organ of our body, divided into several layers it accounts for approximately 15% of our total body weight.

The Skin has Five Main Functions:
Protection function icon

PROTECTION

1. Harmful Agents.
2. Excessive loss of moisture and protein.
3. Mechanical, thermal and other physical injury.
4. Harmful effects of UV radiation.

Thermoregulation function icon

THERMOREGULATION

One of the skin's important functions is to protect the body from cold or heat, and maintain a constant core temperature. The secretion and evaporation of sweat from the surface of the skin also helps to cool the body.

Sensation function icon

SENSATION

Skin is the 'sense-of-touch' organ that triggers a response if we touch or feel something, including things that may cause pain as well as pleasure.

Immune defense function icon

IMMUNE DEFENSE

The skin is an important immunological organ, made up of complex key structures and cells. Depending on the immunological response, a variety of cells and chemical messengers (cytokines) can be activated and function to protect the body.

Biochemical functions icon

BIOCHEMICAL FUNCTIONS

The skin is involved in several biochemical processes. For example, in the presence of sunlight, vitamin D is synthesized, which is essential for the normal absorption of calcium and phosphorus (required for healthy bones).

Understanding the Skin:
Epidermis
Dermis
Hypodermis
EPIDERMIS: THE OUTER LAYER
DERMIS: THE MIDDLE LAYER
HYPODERMIS: THE FATTY LAYER

Though the epidermis is the thinnest layer of the skin, the prime function of this layer is to act as a physical and biological barrier to the external environment, preventing penetration by irritants and allergens. At the same time, it prevents the loss of water and maintains internal homeostasis. The epidermis is composed of layers; most areas of the skin have four layers, but those areas with the thickest skin have five. The layers are:

  • Stratum corneum
  • Stratum lucidum
  • Stratum granulosum
  • Stratum spinosum
  • Stratum basale

The epidermis also contains other cell structures, keratinocytes, melanocytes, Lengerhans cells, as well as Merkel cells.

The dermis is the thick middle layer of skin that lies beneath the epidermis. It contains most of the skin's specialized cells and structures, including blood vessels, nerve endings, sweat glands, and hair follicles.

The dermis is divided into two layers:

  • Papillary dermis - the upper layer that connects to the epidermis
  • Reticular dermis - the deeper, thicker layer that provides strength and elasticity

This layer is rich in collagen and elastin fibers, which give skin its strength, flexibility, and ability to return to its original shape after stretching.

The hypodermis is the subcutaneous layer lying below the dermis; it consists largely of fat. This layer of fat is the deepest layer of skin, it basically attaches your bones to your muscle and bones. It provides the main structural support for the skin, as well as insulating the body from cold and aiding shock absorption. It is interlaced with blood vessels and nerves.

Skin of Colour:

A Historical Perspective

THE SCIENCE OF THE MELANIN PIGMENTARY SYSTEM

Although there has been much philosophical, religious, mythological and even scientific speculation on the causes of skin colour, science and medicine has provided us with the biological answers to these clinical observations.

The skin has epidermal units that are responsible for melanin production and distribution, a process called melanogenesis. These units are composed of a melanocyte surrounded by keratinocytes and regulated by a closed paracrine system. Melanin is the primary determinant of skin, hair, and eye colour. And plays a critical role in photo protection due to its ability to absorb ultraviolet radiation (UVR).

READ MORE
Dark skin melanin distribution diagram
Medium skin melanin distribution diagram
Light skin melanin distribution diagram